Comparing pressed-dry with extended maceration wines

For the 2008 Chez Ray vintage, I tried an experiment, separating the vintage into two batches: one batch pressed dry (ie, immediately as fermentation completed); and the second batch pressed after extended maceration.

Today, I have some recently bottled sample batches of 2008 merlot and zinfandel to compare between these two pressing techniques.

Let's start with the Chez Ray Merlot, 2008:

Pressed dry: The pressed dry merlot shows medium dusty red in the glass. Aromas are bright, bold, plumy and yeasty. A strong inky, alcoholic component. On the palate, a bright but bold mid palate impact, showing very ripe plums and some blackberry. Finishes clean.

Extended maceration: The merlot which underwent extended maceration shows similar in the glass, a touch less purple. Aromas seem to show a somewhat riper, spongy plum element. On the palate, the impact is round, full and soft and ripe in the back of the tongue. Seems more aged already, with less definitive fruit. The finish curls with a bit of acid. Slightly inferior to the pressed dry version.

Now let's try the Chez Ray Zinfandel, 2008:

Pressed dry: The pressed dry zinfandel shows medium cherry red in the glass. Upon swirling, aromas are tangy, metallic and almost citrus. On the palate, a spicy fruit touches the front of the mouth first, slowly unfolding back, sweeter and sweeter as it moves back along your tongue. The finish is moderate and clean.

Extended maceration: The zinfandel which underwent extended maceration shows a similar color - possibly just a touch more faded. Aromas show a similar note, a touch less tangy and bright. The palate is even, full and flush from the start, beginning at the middle of your tongue and spreading out. Perhaps even some chocolate elements as it spreads. Slick, clean finish. Improved over the pressed dry version.

Overall observations: My expectations were that the extended maceration might cause each of the wines to lose some "edge" and distinctiveness. It is probably true that the "edge" has been slightly muted in both. However, with the zinfandel, the extended maceration did not mute the final result. In the merlot, it caused a bit more aged "genericism" in the final product. In the zinfandel, though, it nicely knitted together some otherwise discordant elements. Perhaps that would happen with age in the pressed-dry zinfandel, perhaps not.

So my findings on extended maceration are, in the final analysis, mixed. I believe it muddied the merlot, but enhanced the zinfandel. If I was forced to operate one way or another on all my wines based on this one tasting, I would probably choose to press dry. That is because I believe the merlot was challenged more than the zinfandel was improved.

Too bad life is so complicated!

Pressing the 2009 Mendocino Zinfandel

After three weeks of cold (approx 62 degrees F) fermentation, today I pressed the 2009 Mendocino Zinfandel which was acquired as fresh grapes.

Yield was approximately 9 gallons from four crates of grapes.

*** Chez Ray Zinfandel, 2004, Lodi, CA - Wine Review

By way of background: The Chez Ray Zinfandel, 2004, was made from Lodi grapes, fermented warm, with a combination of French and American oak.

In the glass: Medium to deep red.

On the nose: Fruity, lightly smoky, wet red cherry.

On the palate: Smooth, red fruit in the middle of your mouth. Like a gob of blackberry that has all the tartness removed. Kinda nice in that respect. Balance of the flavors include a general even sweetness, tiny bits of acids crawl up into your cheeks.

And the finish: Sweet acids slowly fade away, and with them any hints of fruit.

In summary: Pleasant, though not intense nor distinctive. Less intensity andfriendliness than I'd expect from a zinfandel. Still, three stars on the Spirit of Wine scale, as I would return to this another time. Could be a nice blender with something offering a bit more structure.

*** Chez Ray 2005 Late Harvest White Blend - Review

The 2005 Chez Ray Late Harvest Blend consists of Pinot Gris and Chardonnay, late harvested, acquired from Brehm Vineyards from vineyards in the Columbia Gorge area of Washington State (coded 05LHUM and LH57). They were fermented with Cote des Blancs yeast, and aged with a small toasted oak sleeve.

In the glass, this shows as light yellow with gold highlights. Aromas are metallic and oily - you've just stepped into my mechanics garage on a night when he's spinning disco tunes!

On the palate, a bright sweet middle starfruit is the first note. It is followed by acids that drive the sweetness up into your cheeks. The finish comes slowly, slowly, slowly as the acids eventually allow the crisp fruit to fade from your cheeks. Three stars on the Spirit of Wine scale.

** Chez Ray Pinot Noir (P4), 2004, Lodi, CA

By way of background: The Chez Ray Pinot Noir, 2004, was made from Lodi grapes, fermented warm, with a combination of French and American oak.

In the glass: Deep pink-red with a brickish cast.

On the nose: Overcooked, almost baked, red berry fruits. A bit of motor oil with the overcooked stew. Nothing to write home about (except maybe to say, "Get me outa here!").

On the palate: Far more presentable on the palate. Sweet red fruits on the mid-palate, not cloying, but fresh. Just a touch of vegetable in there too. Firm, lightly acid, sweet and still rich, a touch of tannin move in after the acids subside.

And the finish: Rests with the acids, then moves to a bit of grip with the tannins.

In summary: I may have overstayed the storage with this one, feels overripe. Two stars, because I can't see hurrying back. Kind of jangled overall. Pinot's a tough wine to get right - my 2004 vintage seems not to have done the trick.